Something I have to get off my chest.

N

Nightstalkers

Guest
Rolex has recently paid off the American government $750,000 as a settlement to recent charges that they were going against the 1960s consent decree. Now that the department of justice has "looked into the matter" they're deciding that the original decree be terminated. I say nay to this outrageous action mainly due to the fact that Rolex has been steadily for the past couple decades infringing upon the decree ever rapidly.

Rolex currently prohibits the sale of watches to only their select retailers and even more so restricts the sale of their watch parts. A retailer found reselling watchparts can and usually are terminated from the Rolex franchise. These in a sense are anti-competetive practices. Restricting watch parts in these ways ensures that the American watchmaking profession can no longer run as a business entity but in fact will become just another service in a jewelry store.

Thusfar the American Watch & Clock Association is supporting the acts of the department of justice in hopes of gaining the one thing that the consent decree protects against, the restriction of watch part sales. These actions being followed through by an organization that is catoring to hobbyists and persons not performing actual watchmaking skills is outrageous. The AWCI is more interested thusfar in creating "more effective tests" for "certification" which has been meaningless since the AWCI was founded.

This series of events is going to begin our watch industry spirraling down a dark chasm if things are not put the way they should. Computer companies are not allowed to restrict the sale of computer parts and neither are car companies are not allowed to restrict the sale of car parts, so why should watch companies be allowed to keep restricting the sale of watch parts?

Here is the current relevant data:
D.O.J. Press release (PDF format)

Documents related to the D.O.J. press release

Response to D.O.J. press release (PDF format)

AWCI Legal Counsel Memo on the Rolex Consent Decree (PDF format)

AWCI BOARD RESPONSE to the DOJ and ROLEX Consent Decree (PDF format)
 
Oversoul

Oversoul

The Tentacled One
I knew the entire jewelry industry is generally a bit messed up. I didn't know that about watches though.
 
E

EricBess

Guest
I don't know much about this, but what is the barrier of entry to another watch manufacturer?
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
No real barrier, but the problem is that most of the technology of the watch is patented up the kazoo that you'd end up paying them more to build the watches. Rolex was the original in that field as they attempted to patent everything on the watches they produced.

The problem with building a new watch is that just about everything has already been done. If you begin building your own line of watches you'd need the equipment to mass produce them accurately (that'll run you around 20 to 40 million) and then you'd need to pay off the royalties to the "stolen designs" you're using, and finally you'll end up bleeding through the nose because you're an "upstart" watch company.

Most of today's watch companies are revivals. From Ball to Quartz and even to Cuervos y Sobrinos, they've either been around at one time or the original designer's family has kept amnesty to the label and sold to the larger companies (Seiko, Rolex, Bulova, etc.).
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
Swatch watches are made to be "throwaway" watches. Meaning that most of them you'll buy, then you can return it when the battery runs out and get credit towards a new watch. Most swatch watches are not made to have the battery replaced or the watch generally repaired.

They're a cute watch using a cheap plastic and "japanese beer can" to make it run.


If you want my opinion about a quartz watch, then go looking for Mallard watches. They usually sport a thicker crystal than most watches, solid stainless steel cases, and the battery life on them spans around 7 years.
 
B

BigBlue

Guest
Does anyone actually wear a watch? I haven't worn one in years... I don't really care what time it is that much... besides, I can check my phone - which is constantly updated...

NS - Are you in the business or something? Why get so mad about Rolex?
 
D

DarthFerret

Guest
lol BB, Nightstalkers is a Watch Repair guy (dont know the technical name). I prefer Pocket Watches to wristband watches. However, I have not had one in about 6 years. I usually use a cell phone, unless I am at work or on the computer (time on computer, and I work in a bar, so I have several clocks on the wall to help peopl know when it is last call!). I cannot stand actually having anything wraped around my wrist, neck, in my ear, or around my finger. (not sure what I am gonna do this Sept when I get married!)
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
A Watchmaker is the current term used for someone who repairs watches. A watch technician is the term for those guys who replace the batteries and may venture so far as to change watchbands and such. Don't be fooled, there are some watches out there that takes someone with more than an iota of brainmatter to figure out how to get the watchcase open properly, and to replace the battery without damaging the watch.

Most of my clients still send me watches from a cheaper pair of guys from out of town whom, through study of the watches they have "repaired," have been doing some pretty shoddy work. Watering down your chemicals is one thing, but using the local tapwater (rich in calcium) and practically ruining a rolex by leaving it in cleaner for far too long? My goodness, it's a wonder they aren't out of business yet.


Pocketwatches are not a very lucrative item as of late. Originally pocketwatches were designed for men and special pockets were fashioned into their vests to carry the watch. But now-a-days the pockets are not really included into vests and one has to carry the watches in their pockets. Add on top of that misuse and misrepair of a pocketwatch and you might have a very horrible mess on your hands.
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
I've been called a "watchsmith" as well. The term changes from location to location really, but the term is Watchmaker.
 
S

Spiderman

Administrator
Staff member
I don't wear a wristwatch as well, but mainly because mine broke and I'm too lazy to fix it.

But I like the Ironman watches...
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
Ironman watches are timex... mainly sold by Target around here. Most of those style watches are under the watchmaker's category of "toys" as they have extroneous features that people use far too infrequently. The watch itself is designed quite like the cheaply made Nike watches I see from time to time.

a side note: Plastic watches with buttons do not hold their water resistance as well as a high grade watch might.
 
S

Spiderman

Administrator
Staff member
Well, I swim (or used to) so I used the stopwatch feature quite a bit. And the timer button...

So what high-grade watch that has the Ironman features would you recommend (that's water-resistant/proof)?
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
Your watch should hold up for a bit under regular use, but remember that plastic never really is good for keeping it's water resistance at the same depths as most solid watches. Replacement generally occurs between 2 to 5 years.

Solid cased watches generally last 5 to 50 years depending upon the wearer. Everything from Breitling, Rolex, Omega, Elgin, Nautica, and even Citizen seems to be okay with few problems.

If you're using your watch when diving or swimming make sure you take it to a trained professional who has the equipment to both open your watch correctly and to have it pressure tested afterwards. Breaking the caseback seal is needed to replace the battery and after years of use the seal could have become old and useless while anything from dirt to your own dead skin could have setup as a seal for the caseback.

I would stay away from watch brands such as Nike and most wal-mart watches though mainly due to the fact that they use poor quality caseparts.
 
B

BigBlue

Guest
Hmmm... The watch I own (and has a dead battery) is one from the Swiss Army company (which escapes me offhand). I'm certain it's just rebranded and not actually made by them... I think the brand is "Victorinox".

My dad has an old rolex... I don't know if it even works anymore - he's had it repaired several times over the years (mostly the band I think).
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
From my experience Swiss Army watches are the hardest to get open and to close. I've even had to send one back to the company to get them to put it back together. Be careful when buying swiss army watches from ebay and places that deal in the world market as Swiss Army has different styles unavailable to the US market that they sell to the Euro markets. These other styles generally have no parts available to them for US use.

Is the band a newer style or is it the later "Made in USA" style? As Rolex watches age the parts become unavailable from Rolex itself. In these cases Rolex tells its stores to either accept the watch in as tradein value for a new Rolex watch or to have the owner take it to an independant watchmaker who might have spare parts available for it. Make sure you don't get the "AWCI Certified Watchmaker" logo in the window mixed up with certification that actually means something. AWCI "certification" stickers for windows and walls come with their $80 yearly fee and just about anyone can get it.
 
N

Nightstalkers

Guest
Technically I am not certified at all. Then again, I speak to those who have interviewed the "certified watchmakers" and they know full well what certification really means.

Rolex has a "free" 2 year course in Pennsylvania where you basically create a watch using multimillion dollar equipment. Sure the course teaches you how to create a watch and the fundamental science behind it... but... You leave the course with a european certification and yet most of these people coming out of there barely know how to use a pair of tweezers correctly.

Rolex stopped giving out certification, AWCI certification comes free if you spend something like $80 a year on their program. The AWCI academy gives some sort of certification... but the entire fanclub itself is filled mainly with people who are not real watchmakers but in actuality a bunch of hobbyists and even they are struggling to "update" their several decade old tests which have been reported to be severely inadequate to today's standards.

So to sum it all up, certification has been rendered entirely useless. Certification does not get you spare parts and it doesn't really open the doors to the job world.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top