Magic Variant: World War

C

Cateran Emperor

Guest
A few months ago, I came up with what has now become a popular variant in my area. So, to share this with the rest of the gaming world, here is part one of three of the rules for Magic: World War!

Keld. Llanowar. Benalia. Urborg. Tolaria.

All of them have a whole mess of creatures, artifacts, spells, and then some. Every color has a plethora of nations that fight using its mana.

And they're none too happy with each other.

World War is a Magic variant, good for two through any number of players. A multiple of five is ideal, as that will allow for a perfect color breakdown.

Step 1: Drawing the lines of battle
For starters, make certain that no two players represent the same nation if there are not at least 15 players (yes, games can get that large). Ideally, there will be a multiple of 5 so there will be an even number of generals for each color.

Step 2: Deckbuilding
Each deck must be 400 cards minimum. It must contain a minimum of 50% creatures. The remainder are obviously spells.

Rules for deckbuilding:

- All artifacts and creatures must somehow mention your nation in a positive sense (i.e. a Keldon player could not use Alexi, just because Keld is mentioned on her card) on the card, whether in name, art, or flavor text. I have yet to determine the pools of legal troops yet, but for now just use your own judgement. There are exceptions for common artifacts, but I haven't determined this yet.

- All non-artifact spells must share a color with your nation's alignment. i.e. a Keldon player can cast Stormbind. Cards that mention a person or place that is of another nation is additionally off limits.

- All basic lands must be of the color of your nation's alignment. Non-Basic lands that serve only to produce multiple colors of mana must be able to produce your color as one of its primary colors.

- Players do not have to discard cards as a result of having too many cards in his hand.

- The "four of" rule does not apply. Each different unit is ascribed a different rank, and that determines the number of copies you can have in your deck. To be described later under the "troops" section.

Step 3: How this plays differently

World War is distinctly different than normal Magic for a lot of reasons, but the primary reason is that all players go through their attacks simultaneously.

At the beginning of the game, each color rolls to see which color acts first. The game then proceeds clockwise around the pentagram of colors (you can see it on the back of any card)

All players start at 50 life and have four basic lands of their color and one nonbasic land under their control. This land is deemed their capital, and may not be the target of any spells or effects. If it is not Legendary, it is now considered as such. If may not be put into the graveyard for any reason.

Phase 1 (All players): Untap. This works identical to normal Magic.

Phase 2 (Clockwise): Upkeep effects. Also identical.

Phase 3 (All players): Draw. All players draw normally, then draw an additional card for every 3 lands of their basic land type they control and every two nonbasic lands they control that can produce colored mana, and finally two cards for each capital they have under their control.

Phase 4 (All players): Exploration. All players may play up to two basic lands or one nonbasic land. No spells or abilities may be played during this phase.

Phase 5 (Clockwise): Development. This is identical to a main phase in normal Magic. The only exception is that non-Instant speed spells may be played via the Instant speed cost for your nation, as will be described later.

Phase 6 (All Players): WAR! this is what it all boils down to, but is so long that I can't write it all down here. This will come tomorrow, along with other updates.

Phase 7 (Clockwise): Rebuilding. Any player may pay 4 to put aside the top card of their graveyard. When no player wishes to do so, shuffle all these piles and put them on the bottom of their owners' libraries.

-Turn ends-

There is still considerably more to this game, but this post is getting really long. As such, the detail for combat will be posted tomorrow.

On the side, anyone interested in helping putting together the army listings for each nation, feel free to e-mail me. If no one does, I may be a while in working it all out.
 
E

Ekaquinox

Guest
This sounds like fun.
I must gather some friends and test it as soon as all the rules are out.

SWEET!!!

All your World War Ideas are belong to us(GO ZERO WING)
 
E

Elrond

Guest
I agree it sounds like a lot of fun.

I can't wait to try it out with my group.
 
C

Cateran Emperor

Guest
Combat is obviously the focus for a variant called World War, and has rules that appropriately make sense on the whole.

First off, some more clarifications for everyone.

Players do not have their own life. Each territory - a group of up to three lands - has a total of 5 life points. If 5 points of damage get through at any one land, the attacking player gains control of that land.

After damage resolves, any surviving defenders must be moved to an adjacent territory of that player or one of his allies. If those troops have no place to go to, then the defending player rolls a D6. On a result of a 3-6, that unit is considered slain in the aftermath. On a 1 or a 2 however, that unit is considered to be alive and can participate in insurrections.

If the attackers are repelled, then nothing happens.

Combat Phase

Phase I: Allotment. All players first divide their soldiers into two piles, attackers and defenders. Defenders are then placed at whichever territory their controller desires to garrison.

Phase II: Declaration. Attackers are declared in the following order:

Red
Black
Blue
Green
White

Attackers are then given a territory to attack.

Phase III: Reinforcing. All players are allowed to shift their defenders up to one adjacent territory.

Phase IV: Insurrection checks. All players now roll 5D6 for each territory they have conquered in prior rounds of combat. That player may remove 1D6 from that roll for every 2 units garrisoned at that territory. On a roll greater than 15, the Insurrection begins. That territory's owner must now only deal 2 points worth of damage to a territory to regain control of it. if 2 units of the territory's former garrison survived their battle, reduce that to 1 point of damage. If the territory is recaptured on that turn, also revive that unit on that territory as though they had remained in play.

Phase V: Regular combat. Each territory works exactly like a normal Magic attack phase.

Phase VI: Calculate the losses. Each side now determines who controls which side controls a territory, where any unit retreats to, and if any units are revived from a successful insurrection.

If at any time a color triad (R/B/G, B/R/U, U/B/W, G/R/W, W/U/G) controls all capitals, they are declared the winner.

Any questions so far?
 
E

Ekaquinox

Guest
Well it's getting better and better.
Be seing ya.(CRAP ENGLISH ISEN'T IT!!!)
 
A

arhar

Guest
I agree, it sounds like fun, but 400 cards? Even for me it's too much, and I don't play multiplayer with less than 90 cards decks, more often 120
 
C

Cateran Emperor

Guest
In response to arhar, you can modify the rules to cut down the decks by taking out the land cards and setting them aside. We haven't had a need for any such variant just yet, but go right ahead. Let someone automatically put a few lands into play each turn instead. Just make sure to tell me how it works out. ;)

Now, for the most important part of the game: your soldiers!

Nations Already Determined
Red

Keld
Goblins
Viashino
Suq'Ata

Black
Phyrexia
Urborg
Mercenaries
Zombies
Rathi

Blue
Merfolk
Tolaria
Teferi's Realm

Green
Yavimaya
Llanowar
Elves
Argoth
Rushwood

White
Rebels
Serra's Realm
en-Kor/Vec/Dal
Kjeldor
Zhalfir

There are plenty of others, but these are the primary ones we've managed to draw out of all the current expansions.

Final Part - Rules for Army construction

1. One commander may go into your deck. If he would be put into your graveyard from anywhere except play, instead put him into your hand. He cannot be countered. He cannot be the target of spells or effects. If he would be put into the graveyard from play, instead remove him from the game.

Any army may put one copy of its commander into play by sacrificing twelve basic lands of the appropriate color. While the commander does not have to be a Legendary card, it is now considered to be as such. Only one copy may be in the player's deck. When the Commander enters play, the following bonuses apply:

- Spells only of your color cost one colored mana less to play.
- Insurrections in adjoining areas only need to roll a 7 or higher to succeed.
- Troops you play gain the following abilities:

Black - "1B: Fear until end of turn"
White - "1W: First Strike until end of turn"
Blue - "1U: Flying until end of turn"
Green - "1G: Trample until end of turn"
Red - "1R: Haste and +1/+0 until end of turn"

- At any time, you may remove your Commander from the game to do any of the following:

Black - Return all creature cards from your graveyard to play on the territory your commander occupied. Search your library for your Commander's Adjutant and put him into play on that territory.
White - Prevent all combat damage that would be dealt to creatures you control for the next three turns.
Blue - Reveal the top ten cards of your library. Put all creature and artifact cards into your hand. Put the rest into your graveyard.
Red - Triple all combat damage creatures your control deal to other creatures for the next three turns.
Green - For the next three turns, 10 damage must be dealt to lands you control to conquer them. No insurrections may occur on these turns.

- One Commander's Adjutant
All the rules for Legendary status apply to your adjutant as well. Continuous effects:

- Mono-colored spells of yours cost 1 less to play.
Your creatures gain the following:

White: "Sacrifice ~: Territory ~ is defending needs one additional damage to be captured this turn."
Black: "Sacrifice ~: Target player discards a card at random from his hand."
Blue: "Sacrifice ~: Draw a card."
Green: "Sacrifice ~: Creatures you control attacking or defending the same territory as ~ get +1/+1 until end of turn."
Red: "Sacrifice ~: Territory ~ is attacking needs one less damage to be captured this turn."

-Basic soldiers. These are to be determined by each play group. Assign your own ranks to any individual card.

Rank 1: Up to 5 in deck.
Rank 2: Up to 10 in deck.
Rank 3: Up to 20 in deck.
Rank 4: Up to 40 in deck.

Those are the basic rules. Any questions, go ahead and ask.
 
E

Ekaquinox

Guest
Looks very complex to me.
And how long does it take to build a deck 400 cards are a lot of cards. And to get about 20-40 copies of some cards it's going to depleat my card reserves for sure.
Gotta test it soon.
 

Spiderman

Administrator
Staff member
Are those nations just a guideline/starting point? Like can you add dwarves and whatever nation they had in Fallen Empires before they got overrun?
 
C

Cateran Emperor

Guest
Correct Spidey, go nuts. If you can think of a new nation to add, by all means do put an army listing in this thread. I'm currently compiling the ones for me initial nations (I hand wrote them originally :eek: )

As for the number of copies of a card, all of the 4th rank soldiers are commons. I find that helps a great deal.

A basic deck actually will cost you $30 if you use only commons. Your options will be limited, but you can win by sheer strength of numbers.

ex. Imagine an army of 20 Keldon Berserkers coming at you. They're the Keldons' staple soldier, and they are beyond imagining just how good they are.
 
F

Firestorm

Guest
Blue:
Thalkalos
Illusions(this would be awesome...)

Green:
Wurms
Squirrels
Deepwood
Spikes
Cats
Saproling & Treefolk

White:
Soltari
Sodiers(basically)
Angels(both of Serra and Radient)
Knghts
(along with blue)Birds

Black:
Dauthi
(along with green)Bugs & insects
Nightstalkers/Specters/Ghosts

Red:
Drakes & Dragons(and other winged monstrosities of death)

Gold?
Slivers
 
D

Darth Dunk

Guest
Sounds like a great variant to me.
How about Shiv for red?
Keep up the good work!
 
D

Dead

Guest
A few questions about life <g>
You stated originally that each player starts with 50 life, but then in part 2 that players don't have their own life. Obviously you can't win by killing your opponent, only by controlling all the capitals, but what about cards such as Necropotence? Players need to have a life total, they just shouldn't lose as a result of it being 0.

Next, you state that each territory comprises of up to 3 lands, and has a total of 5 life. Yet then you say that if any one land takes 5 damage, it is captured. Is it possible to capture inidividual lands out of a territory, or does dealing 5 damage get you the whole territory?

Any ideas on a banned list for this? I'd say that cards that can turn creatures into lands should be avoided for a start, along with man lands (which could get really confusing if they start defending themselves or gain inviolability etc). What about alternative win conditions such as coalition victory or celestial convergence?
 
C

Cateran Emperor

Guest
Yes, a banned list is starting to look like a good idea as time goes on (we still haven't agreed on who wins when Celestial Convergence goes off)

Now, for some answers.
-Life-
You yourself have 50 life. You can never lose the game on account of this. Life is only there to power spells. Necropotence is a good example of this.

-Territories-
Each territory (group of 3 lands) has 5 life each turn. It is healed at the end of the turn just as creatures are.
 
E

Ekaquinox

Guest
But if you play ivory tower+necropotence you will win for sure. Ban Necropotence!!!
 
C

Cateran Emperor

Guest
All "Do something to get rid of all lands" effects are on our most recent banned list.
 
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